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Klein Bottle Hat Crochet Pattern

January 7, 2021 · 2 Comments

This Klein bottle hat crochet pattern was originally featured on the Minerva Crafts Bloggers’ Network, but since they’ve revamped their site it’s no longer there. As I’ve had several people asking about it, I’ve rewritten the post with the pattern here.

My son Aidan loves maths.

Some children like maths because they find it easy, but Aidan loves maths like a mathematician loves maths.

When Aidan was 9 (he’s 13 now), we were watching the Royal Institution Christmas Lectures, and Matt Parker of Stand Up Maths was talking about Mobius loops.

A Mobius loop is a loop that is made by taking a strip of paper, twisting it once and sticking the ends together. The twist means that you can run your finger all the way round it on both sides without having to take your finger off the paper. Without the twist, you can run your finger round the inside or round the outside, but not both without swapping sides.

If you’ve ever made an infinity scarf, this is a Mobius loop.

One of the reasons mathematicians like Mobius loops is because if you cut them in half along the long edge, the results are not what you might expect. Different numbers of twists get different results. I’m not going to tell you what they are in case you want to have some maths fun and try it out yourself!

A Klein bottle is a Mobius loop in 4 dimensions.

The whole idea of 4 dimensions makes my brain boggle a little bit. Apparently the way to deal with this is to not think about it too much.

Shapes with 2 dimensions are flat shapes. They have height and width. Shapes with 3 dimensions are solid shapes, with an extra line coming out that gives them depth. 4 D shapes are theoretical shapes that have a 4th dimension in addition to height, width and depth.

A Mobius loop in 4 dimensions becomes a solid shape. It works in the same way as the Mobius loop in that you can cover the inside and the outside of a Klein bottle in one go, just as you can cover the inside and the outside of a Mobius loop without needing to swap sides.

There are pictures of Klein bottles here.

Anyway, after giving it much thought and with help from Aidan’s drawings, I came up with a Klein bottle hat crochet pattern.

The hat is made by crocheting one piece, which has 2 head shaped pieces joined at the top by a tube. One of the head shaped pieces is then passed through a gap in the other head shaped piece, then the bottom edges are sewn together.

In 4 dimensions you wouldn’t have to do pass one hat through the other or sew the edges together, but in our normal 3D world it is necessary in order for the hat to be wearable!

I made the hat for Aidan when he was 9. Having said that, it fits my head, but I do have quite a little head. So please check the head of the person you are making the hat for because you might need to adjust it.

Instructions

For this Klein bottle hat crochet pattern, I used most of 200g of chunky yarn and a 6 mm hook.

Another thing to take into consideration is how much hair your favourite mathematician has. Yarn with a high wool content might irritate their head, so a synthetic yarn that’s nice and soft might be a better choice.

When you finish each round, join it with a slip stitch, then turn around and go back the way you came. This is so that it doesn’t look odd when you make the gap in the outer hat.

Make 70 ch

Round 1 2 ch, 1 tr into 3rd ch from hook, *1 tr into each st to end of round.* Join with ss.

Rounds 2-6 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Rounds 7-8 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 3 st. Crochet together the next 2 st. *1 tr into each next 5 st, then crochet the next 2 st together* to the end of the round. Join with ss.

Round 9 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Round 10 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 3 st. Crochet together the next 2 st. *1 tr into each next 5 st, then crochet the next 2 st together* to the end of the round. Join with ss.

Round 11 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Rounds 12-14 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 3 st. Crochet together the next 2 st. *1 tr into each next 5 st, then crochet the next 2 st together* to the end of the round. Join with ss.

Rounds 15-16 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next st. Crochet together the next 2 st. *1 tr into each next 3 st, then crochet the next 2 st together* to the end of the round. Join with ss.

Rounds 17-31 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Rounds 32-33 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch) 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 2 st, 2 tr into next st, *1 tr into each next 4 st, 2 tr into next st* to end of round.

Rounds 34-36 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch) 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 4 st, 2 tr into next st, *1 tr into each next 6 st, 2 tr into next st* to end of round. Don’t join these rounds!

Round 37 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Don’t join this round.

Round 38 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch) 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 4 st, 2 tr into next st, *1 tr into each next 6 st, 2 tr into next st* to end of round. Don’t join.

Round 39 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Don’t join.

Rounds 40-41 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch) 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, 1 tr into next 4 st, 2 tr into next st, *1 tr into each next 6 st, 2 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Rounds 42-48 2 ch (counts as 1st stitch), 1 tr into 2nd st from previous round, *1 tr into next st* to end of round. Join with ss.

Push the first hat through the slit you made in the second hat. Line up the bottom edges of the hats. Check that the lines where the rounds are joined are together. Dc the 2 hats together.

Aidan was very happy with his hat, so much so that he even agreed to model the hat so that I could take some pictures. Usually he hates having his photo taken!

Tips

If you are making the Klein bottle hat for a larger or smaller head, just adjust the number of stitches you start with, then follow the pattern.

The 2 hats need to be roughly the same size. If, when you get to Round 42, you find that you have a different number of stitches to what you started with, use the next couple of rounds to make adjustments by increasing or decreasing until you end up with the correct number of stitches.

If the 2nd hat seems a little short, then add an extra row.

Feel free to add a picot edging if you are making the hat for somebody who might like it!

Granny Square Fingerless Mittens Pattern

November 28, 2020 · 3 Comments

Granny Square Fingerless Mittens Pattern

Back in the early autumn when the leaves were first starting to turn, I had an overwhelming desire to crochet things in autumnal colours.

I had some yarn left over from another project which included cream, red and brown. So I used this to make some granny squares.

Unsurprisingly I had lost interest by the time I had made about 10 squares! This was obviously not nearly enough for a blanket, not even a small one, so they’ve been sitting in a pile awaiting their purpose.

When I went out for a walk the other day, I realised that my hands were cold. Then I remembered that I lost my gloves last winter and never got round to replacing them.

So I decided that one way to use up some of the granny squares and sort out the chilly hands problem was to make some granny square fingerless mittens.

As with anything that doesn’t have proper fingers, the granny square fingerless mittens don’t keep your whole hand warm. But they have the advantage that you can have warmer hands than if you’re not wearing gloves and still use your phone!

If you’re prone to chilliness, you can wear them indoors because they don’t restrict movement of your fingers at all. And if your hands get very cold, you could even wear them over a normal pair of gloves.

Fingerless Mittens Pattern

You Will Need

Yarn and a hook. I used this in vanilla cream, wine red and soft fudge. Because the yarn is aran weight, the squares were bigger than if I’d used double knit, but I don’t think it’s worth worrying about. The squares will stretch if they’re smaller.

Making the Mittens

Please note that as I am English I have used British crochet terms!

The first thing to do is to make the granny squares. You’ll need 4 of them.

I used this pattern, but you could make a traditional granny, or any one that you like! The only requirement is that it needs to be a square, otherwise the rest of the pattern won’t work!

Once you have your granny squares, take 2 of them. Join them along one edge. If you don’t know how to do this, there are instructions here. This will be the outside edge of the mitten.

On the opposite side, you’ll need to leave a space for your thumb. So at the top, crochet from the corner down to the bottom of the first cluster. Then from the bottom corner, join together 3 stitches.

Crocheting the Ribbing

This is more of a rib effect than actual ribbing!

Around the bottom edge of your now joined granny squares, do 2 rounds of double crochet. Join each round with a ss.

The following rounds will be worked in trebles. But instead of working into the v of the stitch of the previous round, you’ll be crocheting around the post of the stitch. For the first stitch, crochet round the front of the post, then for the second, round the back.

If you haven’t done this before, this is how to do a treble round the front of the stitch post.

To crochet round the back of the post, put the hook in the other way, like this.

Alternate in this way until you get all the way round, then join with a ss.

You might find that you have an odd number of stitches, in which case you’ll need to have 2 fronts or 2 backs next to each other somewhere. It will be less obvious if it’s on the inside of the mitten cuff.

Work 9 rounds in this way, making sure that you alternate the same each round. This will give the ribbed effect.

If you’d like your mitten cuffs to be longer, then just work more rows!

Mitten Top

Rejoin the yarn at the top of the mitten at one of the side seams. Work 2 rounds in double crochet, joining each round with a ss.

Work a third round of picot edging. If you have your own way of doing a fancy edging, then do that!

Otherwise, this is what I did.

1 ch, then dc into next stitch, then dc into the stitch after that one. 3 ch, then ss through the base of the stitch. 2 dc as before, then 3 ch, ss into base of stitch again. Keep going in this way until you get back where you started.

Thumb

Rejoin the yarn at the side seam. Work 3 rounds in double crochet and join each round with a ss.

Work a 4th round of picot edging in the same way as the top.

Weave in all the ends.

Now you need to make another one for the other hand!

Crocheted Cushion Cover Pattern

July 6, 2019 · 2 Comments

Crocheted Cushion Cover Pattern

Having spent a little while not feeling very inspired, it’s so nice to actually have ideas again of things I want to make!

A few weeks ago I made the decision to go back to what I used to do when I started Tea and a Sewing Machine. So now it’s not just sewing. There will still be sewing but there’ll be other crafts as well.

So here’s a crochet project. It’s been a few years since I wrote a crochet tutorial of any kind and it’s been fun to do this again!

I was inspired to make this cushion while I was out with my friend Helen. Getting some time to myself is difficult with having the kids with me all the time. However, hubby has every other Friday off and since Christmas has been helping me out by doing some stuff with the boys so that I get a break.

Anyway, a couple of weeks ago Helen and I went to a new garden centre a few miles away to see what the cafe was like. While we having a wander around, one of the things that offered inspiration were the crocheted cushions on some of the chairs in the cafe.

So I decided to make my own.

This is the yarn I used. I deliberately chose acrylic because it should wash quite well when my boys and the cat get dirt on it!

And if you’re interested, the garden centre place was this one and the cafe was very nice!

Crocheted Cushion Cover Instructions

To make the crocheted cushion cover, I used aran yarn in 5 colours and a 5mm hook. Unless indicated, each round starts with a new colour.

Please be aware that as I’m English, I’ve used English crocheting terms!

Cushion Cover Front

(Colour 1) 4 ch, join with ss.

(Colour 1) 12 tr into ring. Join with ss.

(Colour 2) Into one of the spaces between the trebles, 2 ch then 1 dc. 2 dc into the next space, then into each space until you’ve gone all the way round. Join with a ss.

(Colour 3) Into one of the spaces between the dc, 3 ch, then 2 tr. 3 tr into next space, then 3 tr into each space all the way round. Join with a ss.

(Colour 4) Find the middle tr in one of the groups of 3. Join the thread with a ss in the space on one side of the middle treble. 2 ch, then *yarn over hook. Insert the hook underneath the post of the middle treble. Yarn over hook again and pull the hook through. Yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over hook again and pull through last 2 remaining loops. 3 ch.* Repeat the starred section until you’ve gone all the way round. Join with a ss.

(Colour 4) ss into next ch, *dc into space, ss into next ch, the top of the post from the previous round and the next ch.* Repeat all the way round, then join with ss.

(Colour 5) Join yarn with a ss into a dc. 2 ch. *Into the little knobble made by the 2 ch in the previous round, 6 tr, then dc into the dc at the top of the post.* Repeat all the way round, then join with a ss.

(Colour 3) Join yarn at the top of a shell, 2 ch. 6 ch, *dc into the top of the next shell, 6 ch.* Repeat starred section. Join with a ss.

(Colour 3) *dc into ch space, 6 tr into dc at top of shell.* Repeat all the way round. Join with a ss.

(Colour 1) Join at the top of a shell with a ss. *8 ch, then dc into the top of the next shell.* Repeat all the way round. Break yarn.

(Colour 1) Rejoin yarn in ch sp. *1 ch, then 6 tr into dc at top of shell. 1 ch, then dc into ch sp.* Repeat until you get back to where you started.

(Colour 2) Join yarn at the top of a shell. *Dc into the top of the shell. 10 ch, then dc into the top of the next shell.* Join with ss. Break yarn.

(Colour 2) Rejoin yarn halfway along one of the ch sp. Dc, *11 ch, dc halfway along next ch sp.* Repeat all round the circle. Join with ss. Break yarn.

(Colour 2) Rejoin yarn halfway along a ch sp. Dc, *10 ch, dc into next ch sp.* Repeat until you get back to where you started. Join with ss.

(Colour 1) Join yarn in a ch sp. 12 dc into ch sp, *1 ch, 12 dc into next ch sp.*Repeat all the way round, then join with ss.

(Colour 3) Find a chain space. Count back 3 dc. Join yarn, then dc into the stitch. *6 tr into 1 ch sp. Skip 2 dc, then dc into next st. Ss into next 6 stitches, then dc into the next one.* Repeat until you get back to the start. Join with ss.

(Colour 5) Find a shell. Rejoin yarn in the space between the last treble and the dc. Dc into this space. Into 3rd dc, 6 tr. *Into space between the dc and the first treble of the next shell, 1 dc. 1 dc into spaces between the trebles twice, then 3 tr into the space at the top of the shell. Dc into next 3 spaces.* Work all the way round, then join with a ss.

Cushion Cover Back

(Colour 1) 4 ch. Join with ss.

(Colour 1) 12 tr into ring. Join with ss.

(Colour 2) Join yarn in one of the spaces. 3 ch, 1 tr. *Into the next sp, 2 tr* 11 times. Join with ss.

(Colour 3) Join yarn in a space. 3 ch, then 2 tr into the space. *Into the next sp, 3 tr* 11 times. Join with ss.

(Colour 4) Join yarn, then 3 ch. 3 tr into sp. *4 tr into next sp* 11 times.
Join with ss.

(Colour 1) Join yarn. 3 ch, 4 tr into sp. *5 ch into next sp* 11 times.
Join with ss.

(Colour 5) Join yarn. 3 ch, 5 tr into sp. *6 tr into next sp* 11 times.
Join with ss.

(Colour 3) Join yarn in a space. 3 ch, then 3 tr into sp. In between the 3rd and 4th tr of the next cluster, 3 tr. *4 tr into next space, then 3 tr in between 3rd and 4th tr of next cluster* 11 times. Join with ss.

The rest of the bag continues in the same kind of way. Each round is increased by 1 extra treble in every other cluster.

So the rest of the back goes as follows:

(Colour 1) 4 trebles into each space

(Colour 2) 5 trebles into the first space, then 4 into the next.

(Colour 3) 5 trebles into each space.

(Colour 4) 6 trebles into the first space, then 5 into the next.

(Colour 5) 6 trebles into each space.

(Colour 3) 4 trebles into a space, then 3 trebles in between the 3rd and 4th treble of the next cluster.

(Colour 5) 4 trebles into each space.

Making the Cushion Pad

You could buy a pad if you wanted to, but it’s easy to make your own and you’ll end up with something the right size for your crocheted cushion cover.

Cut 2 circles from fabric a couple of cm larger than your crocheted circles.

With the right sides together, sew the 2 circles together leaving an opening.

Trim the seam and turn it the correct way out.

Fill it with polyester stuffing. You could reuse an old cushion that’s gone flat. Instructions for doing this can be found here.

Slip stitch the opening.

Finishing the Cushion

Pin the crocheted front of the cushion cover to one side of the pad, and the back to the other.

I joined the front to the back by slip stitching into the top of a cluster on the cushion front, then 6 chains, then a slip stitch into the next cluster of the back. Then I did 6 more chains and a slip stitch into the next cluster on the front.

Because the back has 48 clusters and the front only has 24, you have to miss out every other cluster on the back.

Depending on the size of your pad in relation to the crocheted pieces, you might need more or less than 6 chains.

Since making the cushion, I’ve decided that I like the back as much as I do the front, so I’m going to make another with 2 backs!

Free Crocheted Bunting Pattern

April 25, 2019 · Leave a Comment

Free Crocheted Bunting Pattern

Making crocheted bunting is a fun way to use up odds and ends of yarn from other projects.

This pattern shows how to make traditional bunting triangles, worked in the round. The triangles are quite small, although obviously that depends on the weight of the yarn and the size of hook you use!

If you want to make your flags bigger, you could go round again a couple of times. There are instructions for doing this in the pattern.

I used 2 colours to make mine because I wanted the centres to look like flowers and to stand out from the rest of the flag. You might choose to use more colours, or just one.

year of bunting free crocheted bunting pattern

5 flags from this pattern makes a little bit of bunting, perfect for hanging off a bookcase, a smallish dresser or a fireplace. If you want to make more, for some weird reason odd numbers look best!

Hopefully you know already that I’ve declared 2019 to be the Year of Bunting! You can read about why here, and if you’d like to join in, there’s a list of challenges here.

If you’re planning to join in with Challenge 3, feel free to use this pattern!

Instructions

Please be aware that as I am English, I have used English crocheting terms.

In colour A (white):

4 ch, then join with ss.
3 ch, *then yarn over hook, insert hook into ring, yarn over hook. Pull back through ring, yarn over hook again and pull through 2 of the loops on the hook.* Repeat the starred section once, then yarn over hook and pull through remaining stitches. This makes the first cluster.

Clusters 2-5:
*3 ch, then yarn over hook, then insert hook into ring. Yarn over hook again, then pull through the ring. Yarn over hook once more and pull through 2 loops on the hook.* Do this 3 times, then yarn over the hook and pull through the rest of the loops.

Repeat this 4 more times, then 3 ch. Join to the first cluster with ss. Fasten off.

In colour B (blue):

Round 1
Work dc into a ch sp to join. 2 ch (counts as 1 tr), then 2 tr onto the same space.
3 tr into next ch sp, 1 ch, then 3 tr into same ch sp.

*3 tr into next ch sp. Into the next ch sp, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3tr.* Repeat starred section once. Join with ss.

Round 2
*3 tr into next ch sp. Into next ch sp, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr. 3 tr into next ch sp.* Repeat twice. Join with ss.

To add extra rounds for bigger flags, work 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr into the points of the triangle, and 3 tr into the other ch sp.

When you’ve finished your flags, thread some ribbon through the chain spaces along one edge of each triangle.

Year Of Bunting Challenge 3: Knitted or Crocheted Bunting

April 18, 2019 · Leave a Comment

Year Of Bunting Challenge 3: Knitted or Crocheted Bunting

Welcome to the Year of Bunting Challenge 3!

Challenge 2 was to make some bunting embroidery and several people took part.

Hazel made a cross stitched book mark.

Julie made a needle case (she has a craft blog too which you can find here).

Christine made an embroidery hoop hanging with bunting and tassels.

Challenge 3

Challenge 3 is to make some knitted or crocheted bunting.

Since we’re already half way through April, this challenge will run until midnight BST on Sunday 12th May.

If you’d like to enter, all you have to do is knit or crochet some bunting, then either post it on Instagram or Twitter using the hashtag #yearofbunting, or post it on the Tea and a Sewing Machine Facebook page.

If you don’t do social media, you can email me a picture instead at teaandasewingmachine@gmail.com.

Tips and Ideas

If you’re stuck for ideas, here are some that might help.

You could use up odds and ends to make stripy bunting.

If there’s a stitch you particularly enjoy, you could make triangles featuring that stitch.

For crocheted bunting, you could make the flags either by crocheting rows, like knitting, or by crocheting in the round.

Crocheting in the round is a good way to make bunting if you want to start with a flower in the middle.

Another option is to make the flags, then add your design. You could embroider it or add knitted or crocheted details.

Some Tips

If you find that the edges of your knitted triangles are not as neat as you would like, try not knitting the first stitch of each row. Instead, slip the stitch onto the the needle, then knit the next one. If you are decreasing stitches, slip the first stitch onto the needle, then knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches together.

To crochet triangles in the round, start off with something that can be divided by 3.

Work out where the corners would need to be. Into those gaps, you’ll need to crocheted 2 groups of stitches. Into the other spaces, crochet one group.

For my crocheted bunting, I made a flower with 6 petals. Into the first space between the petals, I crocheted 1 group of trebles, then into the next space I crocheted 2 groups of trebles.

When that round was completed, I had 3 lots of 2 groups, and 3 lots of one. The groups of 2 made the points of the triangles.

So when I went round again, I crocheted 2 groups into the spaces at the points, and one group into each of the other spaces.

If you’d like some more inspiration, then please take a look at my bunting board on Pinterest.

I’m hoping you’ll join in!

Instructions

Tips

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Granny Square Fingerless Mittens Pattern

Fingerless Mittens Pattern

You Will Need

Making the Mittens

Crocheting the Ribbing

Mitten Top

Thumb

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Crocheted Cushion Cover Pattern

Crocheted Cushion Cover Instructions

Cushion Cover Front

Cushion Cover Back

Making the Cushion Pad

Finishing the Cushion

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Free Crocheted Bunting Pattern

Instructions

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Year Of Bunting Challenge 3: Knitted or Crocheted Bunting

Challenge 3

Tips and Ideas

Some Tips

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