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Autumn Granny Square Pattern

September 18, 2020 · Leave a Comment

Out of all the seasons, I think I like autumn the most, although I have a hard time choosing my favourite! There’s definitely something to be said for cooler days, crisp air and golden sunshine. In England, our autumns are not as beautiful as they are in North America or in parts of Europe, but I love them anyway.

So with September swinging round again, I had an overwhelming desire to make something autumnal.

I have a couple of blankets on the go, plus a couple of others in the unfinished projects pile. They will probably get finished eventually, but in the meantime I really wanted to start another one!

Crocheting something in autumn colours felt like it would scratch that itch. Granny squares are wonderful for all kinds of reasons, not least because if you get bored you can always turn the squares into something else that doesn’t need so many, like a cushion or a hot water bottle cover.

Having a rummage in the wool basket unearthed some yarn left over from another project (actually it was this one!). The yarn is Paintbox Simply Aran in Soft Fudge, Vanilla Cream and Red Wine.

The granny square features a flower, which I worked in cream, but you could try it using other colours and see how it looks! Also changing the three colours of yarn that you use, you could use the same square to make a blanket for a different season.

Instructions For Making the Autumn Granny Square

You Will Need

Yarn in 3 colours
A crochet hook that is the correct size for the weight of yarn you are using. I used aran weight with a 5mm crochet hook.

Making The Autumn Granny Square

Please note that as I am English, I have used British crochet terms!

Make 4 chains and join with a slip stitch to make a ring.

Round 1: make 3 chains, then *work 1 treble into the ring, then 1 chain.* Repeat from the * 6 more times. Join with a slip stitch. Break off the yarn.

Round 2: Join colour 2 in a chain space.

Make 3 chains, then yarn over the hook, put the hook into the chain space, yarn over the hook again, pull through the chain space.

Yarn over hook again, then pull through 2 loops. Yarn over the hook, hook into the same chain space a second time, yarn over the hook, pull through the chain space.

Yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over the hook again and pull through the remaining loops.

This forms the first cluster.

The remaining 7 clusters are worked as follows: yarn over hook, into chain space, yarn over hook, pull through the chain space. Yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over hook, into ring, yarn over hook, pull it through ring. Yarn over hook, pull though 2 loops. Yarn over hook, into ring a third time, yarn over hook, pull it through the ring. Yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over hook once more, pull through remaining loops.

After each cluster, work 2 chains.

Join with a slip stitch. At the end of the round, break off the yarn.

Round 3: Join colour 1 into a chain space. Make 2 chains, then into the same chain space, 2 double crochets and 1 chain.

Into the next chain space, work 3 trebles, 2 chains, 3 trebles, 1 chain.

*Into the following chain space, work 3 double crochets and 1 chain.
Into the next chain space, 3 trebles, 2 chains, 3 trebles, 1 chain.*

Repeat from the * twice more. Join with a slip stitch and break off the yarn.

Round 4: Join colour 3 in a chain space immediately after a corner. In the same chain space, work 3 chains, 2 trebles, 1 chain.

Into the next space, 3 trebles, 1 chain.

Into the corner space, work 3 trebles, 2 chains, 3 trebles, 1 chain.

*Now work 3 trebles and 1 chain into each of the next 2 spaces, then 3 trebles, 2 chains, 3 trebles, 1 chain into the space at the corner.*

Repeat from the * twice more.

Join with a slip stitch. Break off the yarn and weave in the ends.

If you don’t want to make a blanket with your granny squares, I have a Pinterest board devoted to granny square projects which you can find here.

You might also like this tutorial showing how to make squares for a fusion quilt.

DIY Ironing Board Cover

July 31, 2020 · 2 Comments

This post contains affiliate links.

A mild annoyance in my life is my ironing board.

I’m not one for ironing. I belong to the “give a good shake and it will be fine” school of laundry! Hubby wears casual clothes for work so does’t need nicely ironed shirts, and on the rare occasions that he does, he’ll iron it himself.

When I do use the iron and the ironing board however, is when I’m sewing.

As a non ironer, it’s tempting to skip the pressing stage! But I know that to get a neat finish, I need to press the seams.

The problem with our ironing board is that it is huge. And being huge, it’s difficult to find an ironing board cover that fits when it needs replacing.

The last one I bought claimed to fit all ironing boards including large ones, but it didn’t! I could barely get it to stay on for long enough to press a couple of seams. Being a normal tired human and not an octopus, I found it rather difficult to hold the ironing board cover on to the ironing board, operate the iron and move the thing I was ironing around.

Anyway, I decided that I’d finally had enough, so I would make one.

I’m being quite good at the moment about not buying fabric, but when I had a rummage in the fabric pile, I couldn’t find any pieces of fabric big enough to make a DIY ironing board cover for the ridiculously enormous ironing board. So I’ve had to buy some.

I love this fabric. The koi carp and the cherry blossom remind me that although we didn’t make it to Japan in April, it’s still there and we’ll visit at some point.

I also used Insul Bright to make the DIY ironing board cover, which is a brand of thermal interfacing.

Both the batting and the fabric came from Remnant House in Yorkshire. This isn’t an affiliate link, I want to do my bit to support small businesses. They have lots of lovely fabric, in particular Rose and Hubble and their prices are reasonable. They’re also helpful if you need to talk to them on the phone.

The cover is attached to the board using elastic.

The instructions below will work of any size of ironing board as you make it to fit your particular board.

Instructions

You Will Need

Large pieces of paper. Pattern paper is ideal. You could also use brown paper or newspaper as an alternative.

Pencil or pen

Fabric. It needs to be cotton so that it can cope with the iron getting hot.

Interfacing. I used Insul Brite which has thermal properties, but cotton batting will do if that’s what you have.

Elastic. You’ll need enough to go all round the outside of the ironing board. I used this.

Bias binding to finish the raw edges.

Making the Pattern

The best way to make a DIY ironing board cover that fits your ironing board perfectly is to draw round it!

If you don’t have enough floor space, you could prop the ironing board against the wall with the paper in between. My advice here would be to use a pencil rather than a Sharpie, especially of your pattern paper is on the thin side!

When you’ve done this, fold it in half. You might need to adjust it a bit.

You’ll need to add a bit around the outside to allow for the depth of the board and the seam allowance. My ironing board is 1.5 cm deep, so I added 3.5 cm to allow for a 2 cm seam allowance plus the depth.

The bit that keeps the cover on the ironing board is made from 2 different pieces cut out on folded fabric.

Take your pattern piece and fold it into 4.

Draw round the outside edge of one of the quarters. Now draw a line 12 cm down from your original line, following the shape of the line. Do the same with the other quarter. Don’t forget to add seam allowances at either end!

Before you do this, you might like to check that this is a good size for your ironing board and you won’t end up with the cover getting in the way of the legs unfolding. This was a good size for my ironing board.

Cutting Out

From the main pattern piece, cut one from your cotton fabric. You might prefer to fold your pattern piece in half and cut it on the fold. You’ll also need to cut at least one from your batting. I cut two layers.

For the bottom sections, you’ll need 2 of each, cut on folded fabric. I used 1 layer of interfacing for these.

How you cut them is up to you! I had originally intended to cut 2 of each and sew them together, but I ended up cutting the top section on the fold, so it was in one piece, and the lower section as separate pieces. If you do decide to cut one or both pieces on the fold, remember that you won’t need the seam allowance on the folded part.

Assembling the Ironing Board Cover

Join the bottom sections together, with the interfacing on the wrong side of the cotton fabric. Insul Bright doesn’t have a wrong side, so it doesn’t matter which way round it goes.

Finish the inside edge with bias binding.

Pin the bottom bit to the top section. The cotton sections should be next to each other with the right sides together, with the interfacing on either side.

Sew the bottom and top bits together. Trim the seam.

Almost there! The last job is to sew the elastic to the inside of the bottom bit. While you’re sewing, stretch the elastic a little bit. It’s not necessary stretch it out all the way, but pulling it a bit will help to fit snugly round the ironing board.

All done! I might even take up ironing!

Embroidered Pincushion Tutorial

June 27, 2020 · Leave a Comment

It could be possible to become addicted to pincushions. Like having an collection of pretty teacups, pincushions can be as different as you want them to be and pretty as you like. There are so many different ways to make them and, because they are little things, you can use scraps that are too big to throw away but too small to use for a larger project.

This embroidered pincushion is part of a kit that I’ve been developing. I wanted to call it the Safe At Home kit, but as the extra time people kept telling me I was going to have never appeared, it’s taking me a while to finish it!

The other projects in the kit are this bunting, and this needle case.

UPDATE: The kits have finally been completed and you can find them here!

Anyway, the last project is now finished and here it is, an embroidered pincushion!

It can be sewn entirely by hand, or you could speed things up a bit and use the sewing machine to sew the pincushion together.

The embroidery design is free to download, but I do ask for an email address. You can find out more about why I do this here. The form is at the bottom of the post.

Making the Embroidered Pincushion

You Will Need

Scraps of felt in pretty colours
Embroidery thread
Polyester filling, sawdust or emery sand to fill your pincushion
2 buttons
Pattern pieces and the embroidery design. You can either download mine (the form’s at the bottom), or you could make your own.

Cutting Out

You will need 2 circles the same size, and one circle a little bit smaller.

Embroidering the Design

I used lazy daisies, fern stitch, woven wheels and French knots. It’s worth remembering that odd numbers of things usually look better, but you can do what you like! Just remember to leave a space in the middle for the button.

Sewing the Pincushion Together

Attach the embroidered section to one of the larger circles. You could hand sew it or use your sewing machine.

Place the other larger circle on top of the embroidery. Sew around the edge, leaving a gap.

Trim the seam if you need to. Turn the pincushion the right way out. Fill it with your chosen material. It will need to be firm to make it easiest for pushing the pins in.

Take a plain button (this one will be at the bottom) and tie the end of length of thread to it. You might want to use a stronger thread for this, or you could use ordinary sewing thread doubled.

Now push the needle through the centre of the pincushion from bottom to top.

Thread a pretty button onto the needle. Pass the thread through, then back into the pincushion and through the button at the bottom.

Do this a few times and pull it tight. Cut the thread and tie it off.

If you wanted to turn this into a wrist pincushion, you could attach it to a piece of elastic, or make a strap for it like this one.

If you like pincushions, I have a whole Pinterest board devoted to them here!

Fusion Quilt Part 1: Making The Squares

May 15, 2020 · 6 Comments

One of the things that I’ve had on a Pinterest board for a long time is this.

It’s a fusion quilt, which basically means that you make quilt squares then crochet them together, so it fuses sewing with crochet.

Every time this quilt pops up again, or when I see it there on my Pinterest board, I’m reminded of how pretty it is and how much I like it!

I’m not one for making quilts. I’ve only ever made one pram sized quilt when my eldest was a baby, although I’ve started a few!

A fusion quilt is different. Because you make the squares, then crochet them together, I think there’s enough variety to prevent boredom from setting in. Also the crochet part is the sort of thing that can be worked on for a few minutes at a time.

So this week, still having a desire to make pretty things, I started making my own fusion quilt!

I should say that the original on Pinterest doesn’t have a tutorial with it, and I’m not trying to copy it but make my own version.

Another raid on the fabric pile behind the bedroom door turned up some pretty fabric in colours I wanted to use, and some fleece fabric for the back of the squares. I also found some yarn for crocheting the squares together.

Obviously I couldn’t crochet straight into the fabric squares, and sewing fabric with yarn was going to cause some problems, so I used embroidery thread to edge the squares in blanket stitch. I was then able to crochet into the embroidered stitches.

Making The Squares

You Will Need

Cotton fabric. This is a good project for using up bits left over from other things. If you don’t have enough to make a whole square, you could make quarter squares and sew them together.

Something to back the squares with. I used fleece fabric. Quilt batting would also work, but you would probably need to make extra cotton squares for the back too.

Embroidery thread. Something like cotton perle is better that the stranded sort.

Yarn and a crochet hook. A neutral colour is probably best, but you can use what you like! I used a beige colour in DK with a 4 mm hook. A lighter yarn would probably achieve a lacier look.

Cutting Out The Squares

One of the advantages of this kind of quilt is that you can make the squares quite large if you want to. It’s great if you tend to get bored with longer projects as you’ll be able to finish your fusion quilt more quickly!

I cut my squares 12 cm x 12 cm (4 3/4″ x 4 3/4″).

If you wanted to make some quarter squares to make larger squares of this size, you would need to cut them 7 cm x 7 cm (2 3/4″ x 2 3/4″).

The backing needs to be the same size.

How many squares is up to you, but bear in mind that they will need to make a rectangle. 24 is a good number to start with. You can always add more later.

Sewing The Squares

Take one cotton square and one backing square.

With the right sides together, sew round the edge leaving a gap for turning out.

Trim the seams and cut off the corners.

Turn out and pin the opening.

Using a long stitch on your sewing machine, top stitch around the edge of the square.

I forgot to take photos of this stage, but I made the squares in the same way as these reusable cloths. There are some step photos in this post if you need them.

Blanket Stitching The Edges

The blanket stitches allow you to have something to work the crochet stitches into.

To sew blanket stitch, sew a loop so that the loop is on the front of the square.

Then pass the needle through the loop from the back to the front. Pull it taut. The top of the stitch should sit on the edge of the square.

Now make another loop by passing the needle through from the front of the square to the back.

Take the needle through this loop, from back to front and pull it taut. Keep doing this until you get to a corner.

I used the top stitches as a guide to get them all about the same size. This also means that if you are finding it difficult to get the needle through the fabric, you can reuse the holes made already by your sewing machine.

Corners

This might not be the proper way of doing corners, but it’s the way I did them!

When you get near a corner, make the next loop directly underneath the corner.

Pass the needle through and pull it so that the end of the stitch is at the corner.

Now make the next loop by passing the needle front to back in the same place.

Pull the thread through again so that the end of this stitch is on the next side of the square and about the same length as the previous stitch.

Then continue until you get to the next corner.

Keep going until you’ve got all the way round. When you get to the last stitch, thread the needle through the loop of the first one and tie the ends.

If you are particular about things being very neat and accurate, you’ll want to make sure that you have the same number of stitches on each side of the square.

I haven’t done that. I’m not too worried about the joins at the corners looking messy because I have a plan for those!

Crocheting Round The Edges Of The Square

Please note that being English, I use English crochet terms!

Round 1

Into one of the blanket stitches, join the yarn and make 3 ch.

Tr into the next stitch, and subsequent stitches until you get to the corner.

Into the 1st of the 2 corner stitches, tr twice.

Then 1 ch, and 2 tr into the next stitch.

1 tr into each of the following stitches until you get the next corner. Crochet round each of the corners in the same way.

When you get back to where you started, join it with a ss.

Round 2

3 ch, then tr into each stitch until you get the the corner.

When you get to the first of the 2 trebles crocheted into one stitch, crochet 2 trebles into the space between them. Then 2 tr into the ch sp, then 2 tr into the next 2 tr.

Continue with 1 tr into each stitch until you get to the next corner. Work each of the corners in the same way as the first one.

When you get back to the start, join with a ss and tie off the ends.

So far I’ve completed 3 squares, with another 2 ready to crochet.

As I have the attention span of a gerbil, it is possible that I won’t finish my fusion quilt! But I feel good about this and I’m hoping to get it done over the next 2-3 weeks, and , so watch this space!

Boxy Pouch Tutorial

May 7, 2020 · 2 Comments

This post contains affiliate links.

Creativity is an odd thing sometimes. Usually I have lots of ideas, but this hasn’t been the case as much recently.

Alan Turing apparently had his best ideas in the bath, and I suspect there’s something in feeling relaxed that helps ideas to flow.

The current global situation is enough to make anybody feel the opposite of relaxed, so I suppose it’s not really a surprise that I haven’t felt as creative as I often do.

Anyway, last week I had an overwhelming urge to make something pretty. The fabric pile behind the bedroom door yielded a little piece of Tilda fabric, and some plain pink cotton. I also found an old bag that I’d kept, thinking that I could use the zips for something (the whole of the front panel is zips; it’s a weird bag). Last week that bag finally came into its own and I used one of the zips!

The size of the boxy pouch was decided by the length of the zip. And, as a word of warning, if you use a zip that doesn’t have things at the ends to stop the zipper thing coming off, pull it slowly! It’s tricky to get it back on once it’s come off.

I used boxed corners on the ends to make the boxy shape, and I added ribbon tabs to make it easier when pulling the zip open and closed.

Instructions For Making a Boxy Pouch

You Will Need

Cotton fabric for the outer and the lining. You could use the same fabric or a plain cotton with a contrasting print. I used a little bit of a print with some plain for the outer, and the same plain for the lining. If you are new to sewing you’ll find it easier to use one whole piece for the outer.

Interfacing. I like to use a medium weight sew in interfacing because it gives it some weight and just enough squodginess, but you can use what you have. Even lightweight interfacing will make a difference.

A zip. The zip I used was 26 cm long.

Ribbon or similar for the tabs (optional)

A zip foot (optional)

Cutting Out

Cut 2 pieces of outer fabric 26 cm x 18 cm, 2 pieces of interfacing 26 cm x 18 cm and 2 pieces of lining fabric 26 cm x 18 cm.

To make the outer from 2 different fabrics, cut 2 pieces 26 cm x 10 cm and join them along the long edge.

The finished boxy pouch measures 27 cm x 8 cm x 7 cm.

If you want to make a pouch that’s a different size but has the same proportions, the long edge needs to be the same length as the zip, and the short edge needs to be 2/3 the length of the long edge.

Cut 2 pieces of ribbon 5 cm in length.

Sewing the Boxy Pouch

If you are joining pieces to make the outer, do that first.

Take one one of the lining pieces and lay it down with the right side upwards. Position the zip on top of the lining, also face up, with the edge of the zip aligned with one of the long edges of the lining.

On top of this, place one of the outer pieces with right side down on top of the zip, and a piece of interfacing on top of the fabric. Make sure that the long edges are lined up and the zip is inside.

Pin it together, then sew along the long edge, leaving about a cm at either end. This is much easier to do if you have a zip foot, but it’s still possible if you don’t have one.

Fold the lining and the outer the right way out away from the zip. It’s a good idea to run the iron over it at this stage. As you are doing this, check that you have pulled the outer and the lining away from the zip. Otherwise you’ll end up catching things in the zip (guess how I know!).

Leaving a cm free at either end, top stitch the lining and the outer, keeping close to the folded edge.

Repeat these steps to attach the other lining piece, outer and interfacing to the other side of the zip.

With the right sides together, sew the other long edge of the outer with the interfacing.

Repeat with the lining, but this time leave an opening.

Trim the seams.

Now open the zip a little way. This is very important! When you turn the box pouch out, it will need to go through the zip opening as well as through the gap in the lining, so make sure you open it enough!

Squash the lining and the outer so that the seams you have just sewn are aligned with the zip. Pin the short edges of the lining, then pin the outer and interfacing.

This is where it will make a difference if you remembered to leave a cm or so free at each end. If you didn’t do this, don’t panic! Just unpick a few stitches.

If you want your box pouch to have tabs, take a piece of ribbon, fold it in half and slip the folded edge inside the seam. Pin it in place, then do the same on the opposite side.

Sew the sides of the lining, catching the zip in the seam each time.

Repeat with the outer and the interfacing, again catching the zip in the seams. Trim the seams.

Making the Boxed Corners

Find the half way point between one of the corners and the bottom seam. Mark it with a pin.

Press from the corner with your finger to crease the fabric. Now open out the corner and match the crease to the side seam. Pin the corner where you marked the half way point.

This is a bit fiddly and you might have to put your hand in through the gap in the lining to get the crease and the seam lined up.

Do the same with the rest of the corners of the lining, and with the outer.

If you would like a more detailed tutorial showing how to make boxed corners, there’s one here. Please note though that these were boxed corners for a bag and although the process is the same, it was less fiddly!

Sew across the corners at right angles to the seam. Cut the corners off. Trim away all the threads.

Finishing the Pouch

It’s time to turn it out! This is where I’m really hoping that you remembered to open the zip!

If you didn’t, unpick the side seam of the outer a little bit, open the zip a few cm, then resew the seam.

Push the corners of the pouch out. Handstitch the opening in the lining.

Now all you have to do is decide what to use your boxy pouch for! I think I might keep the pens I like to use for drawing in mine!

Instructions For Making the Autumn Granny Square

You Will Need

Making The Autumn Granny Square

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Instructions

You Will Need

Making the Pattern

Cutting Out

Assembling the Ironing Board Cover

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Making the Embroidered Pincushion

You Will Need

Cutting Out

Embroidering the Design

Sewing the Pincushion Together

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Making The Squares

You Will Need

Cutting Out The Squares

Sewing The Squares

Blanket Stitching The Edges

Corners

Crocheting Round The Edges Of The Square

Round 1

Round 2

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Instructions For Making a Boxy Pouch

You Will Need

Cutting Out

Sewing the Boxy Pouch

Making the Boxed Corners

Finishing the Pouch

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