How to Sew a Reversible Wrap Skirt

July 28, 2017 · 4 Comments

How to Sew a Reversible Wrap Skirt

In my quest for a neat and tidy house, I have realised that the best way to achieve this is to have less stuff.

With 6 of us in a small house, this is not easy! But I know that there are things I can do to make things much better.

Having too many clothes can be an issue. How many of us have opened a wardrobe bulging with clothes and immediately thought, “I have nothing to wear!”?

I’m trying to cut mine right down to a few things I wear all the time and get rid of things that hardly see the light of day (or refashion them into something else, like I did with this top!).

So to maximise on wardrobe space and keep actual outfits to a minimum, I’ve made a reversible wrap skirt, so it’s 2 skirts in 1!

The good thing about a wrap skirt is that they are easy to adjust. All you have to do is check that the button is in the right place. And if you gain or lose weight, it’s easy enough to move the button.

It’s a good project for a beginner as it’s easy to make and it doesn’t matter too much if your measurements are a bit off.

Making a Reversible Wrap Skirt

I have included some affiliate links.

You Will Need

Some large pieces of paper (pattern paper is ideal but you could use newspaper), pencil, ruler, tape measure, french curve (optional) cotton fabric for the outside, contrasting cotton fabric for the inside (2 metres of each will be plenty), bias binding, 2 buttons.

Drafting the Pattern Pieces

To draft the pattern pieces for a reversible wrap skirt, you will need your waist measurement and your measurement from your waist to your knee. You’ll also need to decide how wide you want the skirt to be at the bottom.

On a folded piece of pattern paper, measure down the fold the same length as you would like your skirt to be. Now draw a line outwards from the top of where you marked. The length of this line will need to be your waist divided by 4, and it will need to go upwards slightly.

From the bottom of where you marked on the fold, draw another line your desired skirt width. This will also need to go upwards.

Join the end of this line to the end of the other horizontal line. Both the horizontal lines will need to curve gently.

If you are unsure about drawing the bottom edge, take your tape measure and find the halfway point along the waistline. Measure down to your desired skirt length. You could do this ¼ and ¾ of the way along as well. This will help you to draw the curve so that the skirt is the same length all the way across.

This is half of the skirt back. To draft the skirt front pieces, you will need to draw around this so that you have one complete skirt. Using a French curve (or a plate if you don’t have one), round off one corner.

Cutting Out

From both outer and inside fabric, you will need to cut 2 skirt front pieces on folded fabric, and 1 skirt back piece.

You will also need to cut a waistband 10 cm wide and long enough to go around the top of the skirt, plus 40 cm extra for tying. You might need to cut this in a couple of sections and sew them together.

For the ties, cut 2 more pieces 10 cm wide and 40 cm long.

Sewing Up

1. Take the outer skirt pieces and sew the front sections to either side of the back. Make sure you sew the straight edges as the curved edges need to be at on the outside. Trim the seams and press them

Do the same with the inside skirt pieces.

2. Pin the outer to the inside with the wrong sides together, matching the seams.

3. Starting up at the top of the skirt, pin one end of the bias binding to the inside of the skirt. The raw edges will need to line up and it will be easier if you fold the bias binding in half lengthways before sewing.

Don’t worry about pinning it all the way round. Just pin it at the start then sew, keeping close to the fold.

4. Fold the bias binding over the raw edges and top stitch all the way round. If you remembered to fold the bias tape in the previous step, you will find this much easier!

5. To make the waistband, join the sections together if you haven’t already.

Fold it in half lengthways and press. Open it out, then fold the raw edges into the middle. Press again.

Fold it in half lengthways again and press.

6. Starting at the left side of the skirt, fold the end over, then pin the raw edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt on the inside. Sew it to the skirt. Don’t worry about the extra for the tie at the moment.

7. Fold the waistband over the raw edges and pin. Top stitch all the way round. When you get to the tie, keep going, stopping 3 or so cm before the end. Tuck the end in, then stitch over it.

8. Make the ties in the same way as the waistband. Fold the strips in half lengthways, press, then open them out. Fold the raw edges into the centre and press again. Tuck the ends in a couple of cm, then sew along the open edge.

9. Sew the ties to the waistband at the left hand side seam. You will need to sew one to the outside of the skirt and one to the inside.

10. Try the skirt on so you can establish where the buttons need to go. If your measuring was accurate, it should be roughly where the other side seam is. Sew a button onto both sides.

On the part of the skirt opposite the button, make a loop by making chains with doubled thread. Attach the end close to where you started. If you need a tutorial showing how to do this, there’s a good one here.

Run the iron on your reversible wrap skirt one last time and it’s ready to wear!

This reversible wrap skirt could be adjusted to make a lined skirt for the colder months.

If you liked this post, you might also like these:

Making Trousers Without a Pattern

How to Draft a Bodice

Cherry Blossom Dress Without a Pattern

Circle Skirt Tutorial

Linking up here.

How to Crochet Fringed Edging

March 4, 2016 · 17 Comments

How to Crochet Fringed Edging

How to Crochet Fringed Edging is the last in a little series of posts I’ve been writing about pretty edgings you can crochet.

Most of them are very easy. They can be used to give a pretty detail to bags, purses, hair bands, blankets, throws and shawls. The can be also added to non crocheted things like towels and napkins.

If you missed the previous tutorials, then can be found here:

Shell Edging

Picot Edging

Bobble Edging

If you would like a free printable of instructions for crocheting all 4 of these edgings, plus 2 extra ones, the link is at the bottom of the post!

Fringed edging is also very easy. Of course, you could make a fringe in the usual way, but it’s nice to have a choice and to be able to do things differently sometimes.

Please be warned that I am using British crocheting terms!

Instructions for Crocheting Fringed Edging

This is very easy to do. All you have to do is make lots of chains joined to the edge you are working on with double crochet.

It will turn out a little bit neater if you start with an odd number of sttiches. It doesn’t make that much of a difference though, so don’t worry if you don’t.

1. 1 ch, miss one stitch, double crochet into the next stitch.

2. Make 25 ch.

3. Dc into the next stitch.

4. 25 ch again.

5. Dc into the next stitch.

Keep going until you reach the end of the row. That really is all there is to it!

It’s also possible to crochet a fringed edging using 2 colours.

1. In the original colour, 1 ch, miss one stitch, dc into next stitch.

2. 25 ch

3. Miss 1 stitch, dc into next stitch

4. 25 ch

5. Miss 1 stitch, dc into next stitch.

Keep going like this until you reach the end of the row.

Then with your 2nd colour:

6. Join yarn at the first free dc. It will be between the 2 ends of the first fringe loop you made.

7. 25 ch

8. dc into next free stitch. So you will miss out 1 stitch (it will already have been worked!).

Keep going to the end of the row.

To get your free printable of this and 5 other crocheted edgings, the link is here.

Happy Crocheting! xx

A Crocheted Bowl Pattern

January 26, 2016 · 12 Comments

A Crocheted Bowl Pattern is the 4th in a series of posts I’ve been writing about storage ideas that you can make quickly and easily! If you haven’t seen the previous posts in this series, you might like to check them out.

A Drawstring Bag From a Pillowcase

Nesting Fabric Storage Boxes

Storage Bag With Pockets

This little crocheted bowl is worked in a circle using double and treble crochet. The edge of the bowl is finished with picot edging.

To make a larger bowl, you could either use heavier weight yarn and a larger hook, or when making the base of the bowl, you can continue increasing for more rounds instead of just 8, then continue with the pattern.

How to Make a Crocheted Bowl

Please be aware that being English I have used British crocheting terms! At the end of each round, join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch.

Make 4 ch, join with ss OR make a magic ring.

1. 6 dc into the ring. Join with ss.

2. 1 ch, then *2 dc into next st* 6 times. 12 stitches.

3. 1 ch, then *1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 18 stitches.

4. 1 ch, then *1 dc into next st, 1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 24 stitches.

5. 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 3 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 30 stitches.

6. 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 4 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 36 stitches.

7. 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 5 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. Join with ss. 42 stitches.

8. 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 6 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 46 stitches.

9. 1 ch, then 1 dc into each stitch.

10. 1 ch, then 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 7 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 54 stitches.

11. 1 ch, then 1 dc into each stitch.

12. 1 ch, then 1 ch, then *1 dc into each of next 8 st, 2 dc into next st* 6 times. 60 stitches.

13. 1 ch, then 1 dc into each stitch.

14. Repeat row 13.

15. 2 ch, then 1 tr into each stitch.

16. 1 ch, then 1 dc into each stitch.

17. Repeat row 15.

18. Repeat row 16.

19. This row makes the shell edging. 2 ch, then 4 tr into 3rd st from hook, *1 dc into 3rd stitch along, 5 tr into next 3rd stitch along* until the edging has been made all the way round.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

I’m going to be using my little crocheted bowl for all the bits of Lego that find their way into the washing machine!

I used this yarn from Hobbycraft and a 3.5 mm crochet hook from this set from Amazon. These are affiliate links.

Interactive DIY Christmas Jumper

December 13, 2015 · 16 Comments

With Christmas Jumper Day fast approaching, I thought it would be fun to make a Christmas jumper for Boy 4.

I had an idea for making something with an interactive element. I didn’t want anything too complicated, perhaps something involving a pocket.

So here we have Santa and a chimney!

The Santa is attached to the inside of the chimney with a ribbon so that he doesn’t get lost. He can go into the chimney feet first……or head first.

I used felt so that I woudn’t have to worry about it fraying and the picture elements disintegrating.

How to Make an Interactive Christmas Jumper

You will need: a plain, long sleeved t shirt or a jumper (You could make one, buy one or use one you have already), felt, a template for your design (if you don’t want to make your own, you can buy the one I used here), ribbon, buttons for eyes (or you could use felt).

1. Make your template. If drawing is not your thing, simple shapes work best. Use the top as a guide so that the finished design isn’t too big.

The elements you will need are: chimney, Santa’s body, boots, belt, hands, head, beard, hair, eyes, nose and mouth, hat.

Check that the Santa will fit inside the chimney.

If you don’t want to make your own, you can buy the one I used here.

2. Cut the pieces out of felt. You will need 2 of the body pieces.

3. Make up the Santa by appliqueing the various bits of him to one of the body pieces. I hand sewed the pieces on; you could use a sewing machine if you prefer.

4. Sew the other body section on to cover the stitching at the back.

5.Sew the ribbon to the back of Santa’s hand.

6. Sew the snow to the top of the chimney.

7. Pin the chimney to the jumper, near the bottom. Your little person will need to be able to get the Santa out of the chimney, so don’t put it too high up. Sew around the sides and bottom of the chimney. Reinforce where you start and finish to make the pocket a bit stronger. And before any of you say anything, I am very aware that the chimney minus the Santa looks very much like a mug of beer ;).

8. Sew the other end of the ribbon inside the chimney pocket.

Your Christmas jumper is finished and you’re good to go!

Learn How to Crochet Part 3: Trebles (US Double Crochet)

November 24, 2015 · 1 Comment

This is the third in a series of posts for people who want to learn to crochet. If you haven’t already, before jumping in with trebles, you might want to take a look at the two previous posts.

How to Crochet Chains

How to Crochet Double Crochet (US SIngle Crochet)

Before you can learn how to crochet trebles, you will need to know how to crochet chains. If you don’t know how to crochet chains yet, you’ll need to learn to do that first!

How to Crochet Trebles

1. Crochet some chains. 10 – 15 will be enough for practising.

2. Put the yarn over the hook, then insert the hook into the 4th chain from the hook. These 3 chains will count as the first stitch, and you will need to work three chains at the end of every row, as the treble is a tall stitch.

3. Put the yarn over the hook again and pull it through. You will now have 3 loops on the hook.

4. Put the yarn over the hook once again and pull it through the two nearest loops on the hook. You will have 2 loops left on the hook.

5. Put the yarn over the hook once more and pull it through the two remaining loops. You have just made a treble!

6. Put the yarn over the hook and insert the hook into the next chain. Repeat from Step 3.

Keep going in this way until you reach the end of the row.

Then work 3 chains. These are your turning chains and will count as the first stitch.

Turn your work over. Put the yarn over the hook, miss out the chains and the first proper stitch, and insert the hook underneath the v of the next stitch. Put the yarn over the hook again and pull it through.

Then continue as you did with the previous row. Put the yarn over the hook again and pull it through the 2 nearest loops. Yarn over the hook once more and pull it through the last 2 remaining loops.

Tips To Help You Remember:

Putting the yarn over the hook is the first step in working the stitch. So remember to do this before you stick the crochet hook anywhere.

The first loop is the one that is already on the hook. The 2nd and 3rd are made by putting the yarn round the hook, firstly before putting the hook through the stitch, then again when you have pulled the yarn back through.

The loops are worked off the hook in 2 lots of 2.

Next time I’ll be showing you how to work half trebles!