How to Draft a Trouser Pattern

June 30, 2017 · 26 Comments

How to Draft a Trouser Pattern

One of the things I love about sewing for little ones is that they don’t care about what other people think!

My youngest boy, Cosmo, is 4. He doesn’t think in terms of some things being for boys and other things being for girls, he just thinks about whether he likes them. His favourite colour is pink.

With Cosmo starting school in September, I know that these days of him being free to be just who he is in the way that only small children are are coming to an end, and try as I might to keep him this way, he will be dictated to a bit by other kids at school.

So when I had to go into King’s Lynn to rescue a pair of shoes that got left on the bus, I jumped at the chance to take my little lamb to the fabric shop and let him chose something that I could make into a pair of trousers.

Cosmo chose some fabric with the bees on, which I think will make a lovely pair of trousers for the rest of the summer!

I didn’t have a pattern and last time I made trousers, I drew round a pair of trackie bottoms. This worked out ok, but they were a bit baggy around the top.

So this time, I decided to draft a trouser pattern properly so my little boy will have a pair of gorgeous bumble bee trousers that fit his sweet little self perfectly!

How to Draft a Pair of Trousers

It’s easier than you might think to draft a trouser pattern! Although this was a pair for a little boy, the same principles apply whatever the size of the person.

You Will Need

Pattern paper or greaseproof paper, a pencil, a ruler and a tape measure. A French curve is useful but you could use a plate instead if you don’t have one. These are affiliate links.

Taking Measurements

The key to sewing clothes that fit properly is taking accurate measurements.

To draft a trouser pattern, you will need to measure:

Waist to ankle (the easiest way to do this is to dangle the tape measure upside down)
Waist to knee
Waist to hips (at the widest point)
Rise (sit on a chair, then measure from your waist to where your butt meets the chair)

Around your waist
Around the front of your hips at the widest point
Around the back of your hips
Around your knee

You’ll also need to decide how wide you want the trousers to be at the bottom.

Drafting the Pattern

The pattern will be drafted in 2 sections. There’ll be one section for the back, and one for the front. These sections will then be cut on doubled fabric, so you’ll have 2 back pieces and 2 front pieces.

Trouser Front

1. Take your pattern paper and down one edge, draw a vertical line the same length as the distance from your waist to your ankle. If you are making trousers for yourself, you might need to stick pieces of paper together.

2. On that vertical line, mark on your waist (that’s at the top), distance from waist to hips, your rise, and waist to knee.

3. Now you’re going to draw on the horizontal lines. These will go where you marked on the vertical line.

Take your waist measurement and divide it by 4. Add 1 cm for ease and draw that line at the top of the vertical line.

4. Take your front hip measurement and divide it by 2. Add 1 cm, then draw that horizontal line where you marked your hips.

5. Underneath that, where you marked your rise, draw another horizontal line the same length as your front hip measurement. This line will need to be longer, so we have to calculate the crotch extension (I wish they’d call it something else!). How long was the line you just drew? Multiply that by 0.25, then extend the rise line by that amount.

6. Now find where you marked your waist to knee measurement on the vertical line. Divide your knee measurement in half, and 1 cm for ease and draw it on.

7. At the bottom of the line, draw a last horizontal line. This will be the width you want the trousers to be at the bottom.

8. Now join the lines up! The waist to hip line will be straight.The next part, the hip to rise, will need to be curved. For this you can use a French curve, or a plate will do if you don’t have one. The rise to ankle will also be a straight line.

Don’t worry about joining it to the knee line. Just make sure that you don’t go through that line, or you’ll have issues getting your trousers on!

Drafting the Trouser Back

Drafting the back section is done in exactly the same way as the front, with 2 exceptions.

The first is that where you draw you hip line, you will need to use the measurement you took around the back of your hips, divided by 2, plus 1 cm for ease of wearing.

The other exception is that to work out the crotch extension, you will need to multiply the hip line by 0.3.

Adding the Seam Allowance

You will need to add a seam allowance to your pattern pieces. You can either draw around your pattern piece to add a seam allowance, or you could just add it in when you’re cutting out.

It’s a good idea to write on your pattern pieces whether you’ve added in the seam allowance or not to avoid causing yourself confusion if you decide to make yourself another pair at a later date.

Next week I’ll be showing you how to sew the pieces together to make the trousers!

Linking up here.

How to Sew a Hem With Bias Binding

June 27, 2017 · 2 Comments

How to Sew a Hem With Bias Binding

Whenever I make something with a curved hem, my favourite way to finish it is to sew the hem with bias binding.

As bias binding stretches with the curved edge, it’s perfect for finishing a hem on a circle or half circle skirt. I also often use it for finishing armholes and necklines as well.

Usually I sew the bias binding on so that it is visible. But while I was watching the Great British Sewing Bee last year, I discovered that there’s actually another way to sew a hem with bias binding, so that the binding is not visible on the outside.

I love the idea of this because it’s like having a bag with a pretty lining. Other people might not see it but I know it’s there!

I’ve been wanting to try it out for a while, and the opportunity presented itself a couple of weeks ago when I was turning this top into a dress.

I was happy with the results, although I could have used a narrower bias binding. If I had, the results would probably have been neater, as the stitching is quite high up and I think it would look nicer if it was closer to the bottom of the hem.

Here’s how to sew a hem with bias binding if you want to have a go yourself!

Sewing a Hem With Bias Binding

You Will Need

Enough bias binding to go around the hem of your skirt (the 16 mm stuff will be fine, you don’t need it to be very wide), plus a bit extra, an iron and ironing board, usual sewing supplies.

Binding the Hem

1. Take one end of your bias binding and open it out a bit. Unless you’re sewing something small, leaving it on the roll or folded up will be easiest.

2. Starting somewhere that won’t show too much (the side’s a good place), pin one end of the bias binding to the edge that you are binding. The right sides need to be together, so pin it face down to the right side of your skirt.

Don’t worry about pinning it right the way round. Just a few cm to get you started will do fine.

3. Ensure that the edges are aligned, then sew the rest of the bias binding to the right side of the skirt. Keep the stitches as close as you can to the fold nearest to the edge, without actually sewing over the fold.

When you get back to where you started, sew a little bit more so that the ends overlap.

4. With the iron, press the seam you have just sewn away from the bias binding and towards the skirt. Turn it over and press it again to make sure that the seam is nice and neat.

5. Now fold the bias binding over so that it is underneath, and press again.

6. Keeping close to the other folded edge this time, sew the bias binding in place.

There you have it! One bound hem where the bias binding is not visible.

I love the idea of having pretty bias binding on the inside that nobody knows is there! Here are some links to bias binding on Minerva Crafts. These are affiliate links.

Linking up here.

How to Draft a Sleeve Pattern Piece

June 20, 2017 · Leave a Comment

How to Draft a Sleeve Pattern Piece

Last week I showed how to draft a simple bodice pattern piece.

Once you have your pattern piece drafted, there are lots of possibilities for what you could make with it. You could add a skirt and turn it into a dress, change the neckline or make it into a top.

Sleeveless is fine, but depending on what you’re making, you might want to add some sleeves.

The good news is that it is easier and quicker to draft a sleeve pattern piece than a bodice!

Once you have the piece made, you can alter the length, the style and the shape of the sleeve to fit with the garment that you are making.

Drafting a Sleeve

Sleeves are an odd shape. They look nothing at all like how you would expect!

The top part needs to be curved to fit into the armhole, which is also curved.

In the past I have drawn sleeves free hand, just using a piece of string to get the size of the curved top part correct.

Unfortunately this is not very accurate and I have on occasion ended up with sleeves that were a bit of a snug fit!

Thankfully with a little bit of measuring it’s possible to get sleeves that fit your arm and fit the armhole of the thing you’re making!

You Will Need

To draft a sleeve pattern piece, you will need some large sheets of paper (pattern paper is best but you could use greaseproof paper or newspaper), a pencil and eraser and a long ruler. A French curve is also useful. These are affiliate links.

1. Draw a vertical line the same length as the distance from your shoulder to just below your armpit.

2. At the bottom of the line, draw a horizontal line the same length as the distance around the top of your arm.

3. Use a French curve to join to the top of the vertical line to the ends of the horizontal line.

4. To draw the rest of the sleeve, extend the first line. This will determine the length of the sleeve, so you will need to measure from your armpit to where you want the sleeve to end.

5. At the bottom, draw another line at right angles. This will need to be the total distance around the opening of the sleeve.Then join up the lines.

A tapered piece will give a more fitted sleeve. If it is less tapered the sleeve will be looser.

To make shorter sleeves, just measure around your arm higher up and adjust the length accordingly.

If you like to make clothes without a pattern, you might enjoy these posts:

Circle skirt without a pattern

Cherry blossom dress without a pattern

Blue and white dress without a pattern

25 tips for sewing clothes without a pattern

Little boy’s shirt without a pattern

Linking up here.

How to Draft a Bodice Pattern Piece

June 13, 2017 · 6 Comments

How to Draft a Bodice Pattern Piece

Making clothes for yourself is a lot of fun, and in my experience, making clothes without using a commercial pattern is even more fun!

If you don’t use a pattern (or more to the point, draft the pattern pieces yourself), not only will you end up with something designed specifically for your body shape, you’re not restricted to what patterns are available. The only limit is your imagination!

When I started making clothes for myself without using a pattern, I started off by draping fabric over a dress form and drawing on where I needed to cut with a pen. I quickly discovered that my dress form and I are not the same size!

So instead I pinned the fabric to myself and did it that way. However this is rather tricky to do without a reliable helper.

The things I made did fit well enough to wear them, and most of them I still wear now. I’ve since discovered that having at least a rough idea of a pattern shape makes everything much easier.

In this post I’m going to show how to make a basic bodice pattern piece (also known as a block or a sloper).

I’ve not had any professional training in sewing or dressmaking at all. My mum taught me how to use a sewing machine when I was 10 and the rest I have learnt along the way.

So the method described below isn’t necessarily the proper way of doing things! I like things to be simple and uncomplicated, and sometimes the proper way is very complicated! This method for drafting a bodice pattern piece is the one that I use.

To start with, you’ll need to measure yourself. You might like to read these tips for taking measurements.

Don’t forget to add a seam allowance and a couple of cm for ease of wearing to your finished bodice!

Once you have your bodice pattern piece drafted, it’s best to make a toile (also known as a muslin). A toile is a trial version that allows you to check that it fits and to make any necesssary alterations before making something for real. £3 a metre polycotton is very good for this (affiliate link)!

You Will Need

Before you start, there are some tools you will need. If you’ve been sewing for a while, you’ll probably have at least most of it. If not, I’ve included some Amazon affiliate links below.

For measuring yourself, you need a plastic tape measure.

For drafting the pattern, you will need some large sheets of paper. Pattern paper is great. Some of it comes with squares or dots printed on it, which is helpful. Swedish pattern paper has the advantage that you can sew it. An old sheet makes a good alternative.

A long ruler is also a necessity. A tiny 6 inch ruler won’t be long enough!

A nice sharp pencil and an eraser for drawing.

A French curve is a “nice to have” for drawing armholes and necklines.

Drafting the Bodice Pattern Piece

A bodice front usually has darts at the side and often at the bottom as well.

Darts might seem intimidating if you have not come across them very much, but they’re nothing to worry about! They are just triangular shaped tucks that give the bodice some shape and allow for the fact that women’s bodies are not cuboid.

There’s a tutorial showing how to sew darts here.

To draft a bodice front, start off with a large rectangle.

Draw a vertical line the same length as the distance from the top of your shoulder near your neck to your waist. This will be the centre line of the bodice. When you cut out your fabric, it will be this line that goes on the fold.

Near the top of the line, draw another line at right angles to it the same length as half the distance across your collarbone.A couple of cm below and using the measurement across your shoulders divided by 2, draw another line below the first horizontal line.For the next horizontal line, you will need your chest measurement divided by 4 and your shoulder to just past your armpit measurement.

On your pattern, find the outside edge of your shoulder line. Measure down the same distance as from your shoulder to just past your armpit.

At the bottom of that line, draw a horizontal line the same length as your chest measurement divided by 4.Underneath your chest line, draw another line, this time your bust measurement divided by 4.How far down you draw this line is will depend on the distance between where you took your chest measurement and where you took your bust measurement.

From the bottom end of the first vertical line, draw a horizontal line the same length as a quarter of your waist measurement.Now join the lines up! To get the curve of the armhole, you might like to use a French curve.

To draw the neckline, measure down from the top of the centre line about 8 cm. Using a French curve, join to the far end of the collarbone line.

Now pin your bodice pattern piece to your dress form (or to yourself if you prefer). Check that the neckline is where you want it and redraw it if necessary.

Adding the Darts

To draw the side darts, find the bust line and mark a couple of cm either side. Join these marks to a point about 8 cm along the bust line. You will need to check this on yourself or your dress form to determine whether it is correct. If it’s not right, adjust it. You might need to make it wider or narrower, shorter or longer, or adjust the position a little bit.

If you want to add darts at the bottom of the bodice, these will need to go 8 – 10 cm out from the centre. They will be longer and narrower than the side darts. Again, check on yourself to make sure they’re accurate.

Bodice Back

The official way to draft a bodice back is to take the same measurements from your back, then using these draft the pattern piece in the same way that you did the front.

If you don’t fancy doing things the official way, there is an easier and quicker way! You can use the bodice front as a guide. Simply draw round the bodice front, then adjust the neckline so that it is shallower. Just be aware that it might need some adjusting when you make your toile.

Using Your Bodice Pattern Piece

To turn your bodice pattern piece into a top, just make it a bit longer and a bit wider, unless you want it to be close fitting. Depending on how long you want it to be, you might have to allow for your hips too.

You’ll need to consider how you’re going to get in and out of it. On dresses I prefer an invisible zip sewn into the side seam. Alternatively you could add buttons or a zip to the front or the back. Just use your bodice front pattern piece to cut 2 halves and allow extra for a zip seam or button bands.

The neckline on your bodice pattern piece can be changed. Use it as a starting point, then change the neckline to a v neck, a sweetheart neckline or whatever you prefer.

If you’re looking for an easy way to make your bodice into a dress, you could add a circle skirt. This is what I did here with my cherry blossom dress!

Happy sewing!

How to Sew Darts

May 23, 2017 · Leave a Comment

How to Sew Darts

If you haven’t tried to sew darts before, the idea of them can be off putting and you might be tempted to avoid them.

This can be said of a number of other sewing techniques as well! But they’re one of those things that once you understand their purpose and you know what to do, they’re not scary at all and are actually useful!

In this post I’ll be explaining what darts are, what they are for and how to sew them.

What is a Dart?

Never mind men of a certain age and a certain physique in the pub throwing sharp things at an impossibly small board!

In the context of sewing, a dart is a small, triangular shaped tuck usually found in tops, bodices and the tops of skirts.

Their purpose is to give the garment some shape. It enables you to turn a flat piece of fabric into a 3D thing that also allows for curves and that fact that women’s bodies are not cuboid.

When making clothes for yourself, darts are essential. Without them, there’s a good chance that the thing you are making will end up looking shapeless.

Where Do the Darts Go?

If you look at the clothes in your wardrobe, or if you look on a pattern, you will probably find that darts are used in several places.

The first place is usually at the side of the boob area. The dart starts in the side seam and usually moves diagonally upwards.

Depending on your dimensions, these darts will usually be 6 – 10 cm in length and about 4-5 cm wide at the side seams.

The second place is in the front of a bodice, from the waistline moving upwards and usually 8-10 cm either side of the centre. These tend to be thinner and longer.

Sometimes there will be darts on the back of the bodice too.

Occasionally you might find darts in the skirt. These will start in the waist and move downwards.

In dresses that don’t have a separate skirt and bodice, you might sometimes find double pointed darts. These are where 2 triangles are joined together to make a diamond shape. The widest part of the diamond will usually be in the waist area.

How Do I Sew Darts?

Once you’ve finished cutting out your fabric, sewing the darts is one of the first things you will need to do.

Transfer the dart from the pattern to the fabric. The easiest way to do this is to mark the point, then the legs, then join them up.

To mark the point make a hole in the pattern with a pin, wiggle it about a bit to make the hole bigger, then rub a piece of tailors’ chalk over the hole to leave a mark on the fabric.

Mark the open end of the dart (often referred to as the dart legs), with chalk or pins.

Join the legs to the point, with chalk again, or a vanishing ink fabric pen (affiliate link) or a pencil. I used a pencil.

Fold the dart in half so that the legs are together and pin.

Starting at the open end of the dart, sew along the legs. Don’t backstitch as it might cause puckering and bumpiness! At the point end, you might like to pull the threads to the wrong side instead, just don’t pull too tightly.

Press the dart downwards.

If the dart is moving in an up and down direction, press it towards the side seams.

To get them nice and neat, you might like to use a tailors’ ham. You can get them from Amazon here(affiliate link) or if you fancy a project, there’s a lovely tutorial from Sew Ready here, with a free pattern.

Some other tutorials you might like:

How to Sew French Seams

Cherry Blossom Dress Without a Pattern

Setting Yourself Up For Success: 15 Tips For Successful Sewing

How to Draft a Trouser Pattern

How to Draft a Pair of Trousers

You Will Need

Taking Measurements

Drafting the Pattern

Trouser Front

Drafting the Trouser Back

Adding the Seam Allowance

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How to Sew a Hem With Bias Binding

Sewing a Hem With Bias Binding

You Will Need

Binding the Hem

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How to Draft a Sleeve Pattern Piece

Drafting a Sleeve

You Will Need

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How to Draft a Bodice Pattern Piece

You Will Need

Adding the Darts

Bodice Back

Using Your Bodice Pattern Piece

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How to Sew Darts

What is a Dart?

Where Do the Darts Go?

How Do I Sew Darts?

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