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Making Friends With Your Sewing Machine: How to Sew With a Sewing Machine

July 3, 2021 · Leave a Comment

Now that you know what all the bits of your sewing machine are for, and you’ve got it all set up and ready to go, it’s time to learn how to sew with your sewing machine!

It’s always a good idea to have a practice first on a scrap piece of the fabric you will be using. That way you can check that everything’s alright before getting started on your project.

Before You Start

Double check that you have actually threaded the machine, including the needle, put the bobbin in the bobbin hole and brought the bobbin thread through to the top. If you can’t remember how to do this, it’s in this post here. You might be fine, but I’m so forgetful it’s safest that I check before I start sewing!

The thread that goes through the needle needs to be between the prongs of the presser foot and away from you.

The bobbin thread also needs to be away from you.

Making Friends With Your Sewing Machine How To Sew With a Sewing Machine

With both threads, make sure that there is enough to hold onto when you start sewing. This is to prevent the ends of the threads from getting pulled into the machine and everything ending up in a tangle.

Check that the foot pedal is plugged in.

Now you’re ready to find out how to sew with a sewing machine!

Sewing With Your Sewing Machine

Switch on the sewing machine

Select stitch type and length. To start with, you’ll probably want to use a straight stitch, and 3 mm is a good length. To select the stitch and the length, you might need to press some buttons or turn a dial depending on your sewing machine. If you are not sure, consult the manual. If you don’t have a manual, you might be able to download one.

Check your seam allowance. For dressmaking, it’s usually 2 cm (3/4 inch). Your sewing machine might have seam allowances marked on the foot plate. Otherwise you’ll need to whip your tape measure out and check.

Don’t be tempted to eyeball it! A few mm might not seem like a lot, but if you are out on every seam, these few mm will add up and you’ll end up with something that doesn’t fit.

Slip your fabric underneath the presser foot and lower the foot with the lever. When you are sewing, the feed dogs move the fabric from back to front. So you’ll need to have the bit that needs sewing in front of the needle.

If your sewing machine has this option, then lower the needle. This means that if you need to turn a corner, you can lift the presser foot and turn it neatly. It also means that if you accidently pull on the fabric, it won’t move.

It’s a good idea when you start to sew on the spot a few times first. Your machine might have this option. Otherwise, sew forwards, then backstitch, then forwards again for a few stitches to prevent your sewing from coming undone. This also works quite well of you are sewing right at the edge. Just start a bit further in, backstitch, then start to sew. My machine has a habit of chewing things up if I start too close to the edge!

Press down gently on the pedal. The fabric will start to move and the needle will go up and down. You’re sewing with your sewing machine! Gently guide the fabric in the direction you want to sew. If you are sewing seams or a hem, check that the edge is lined up with the line on the footplate, or, if your sewing machine doesn’t have those, that the fabric remains the same distance away from the edge of the presser foot.

When You Have Finished Sewing

When you have finished the bit you are sewing, sew on the spot a few times or backstitch.

Raise the needle.

Lift the presser foot with the lever.

Gently pull your sewing away from you, then cut the threads. Leaving a bit of a tail will prevent you from having to rethread the machine when you next need to sew.

Some sewing machines have a thread cutter at the side of the machine, but using scissors is fine too.

When You’ve Finished Using Your Sewing Machine

Turn of the machine. It’s a good idea to unplug it too for fire safety.

Pop a cover over it to prevent dust and fluff and pet hair from ending up in it.

You might also want to get the foot pedal up off the floor if you have a habit of tripping over things or pets that chew stuff.

Tips

Now you know how to sew with a sewing machine, here are some tips to make it easier!

Have the bulk on the left. You’ll have noticed that there isn’t an awful lot of space to the right of the needle. So if you are sewing something large and there’s a lot of fabric on one side, then try to have it on the left where there is more room.

When using your sewing machine, try to put it somewhere there is plenty of space to the left. It will make things easier if there is some space behind the sewing machine too. Also, I’d recommend keeping your cup of tea on the right hand side of the machine, otherwise there’s a good chance that the thing you are sewing will end up with tea stains on it!

Don’t be tempted to pull the fabric through the machine. It’s fine to have one hand round the back to guide it, but if the temptation to pull proves to be too great, you can keep both hands round the front and guide the fabric that way instead. This is especially important when sewing with stretchy fabrics as you will end up with it looking messy if you pull it.

Washi tape seam marker. If your sewing machine doesn’t have those helpful little lines for lining up your seam allowance, you can make your own. Measure carefully from the little hole in the bobbin plate out to the left, and stick a piece of washi tape as a marker.

Making Friends With Your Sewing Machine: How to Set Up Your Sewing Machine

May 21, 2021 · 1 Comment

This post contains affiliate links.

If you missed the first post in this series, it’s here: Making Friends With Your Sewing Machine: What Are All the Different Bits and What Do They Do?

Now you know what the different bits do, it’s time to set up your sewing machine so you can start sewing!

The first thing is to put the sewing machine on a table near a plug socket and plug it in. I’ve considered sewing with my machine on my lap, but I don’t think it would go well!

Plug the foot pedal into the sewing machine. On my sewing machine, the pedal plugs in next to the power cable. The pedal will need to be on the floor, next to your foot, with the fatter end of the wedge away from you.

set up your sewing machine plug in pedal

Which Thread?

Before threading the sewing machine, it’s worth mentioning that what thread you use matters.

Cheaper thread is often not very smooth. It has places where it’s thinner and others where it’s thicker. The thinner bits mean that it’s more likely to break while you’re sewing, and the thicker bits make it more likely to snag the fabric or get stuck in the needle.

As this can potentially damage your sewing machine, it’s worth paying a bit more for decent thread. Gutermann and Mettler are both good.

The same goes for pre wound bobbins. It’s better in the long run to buy good thread and wind the bobbins yourself on your sewing machine.

making friends with your sewing machine how to set up your sewing machine

How Your Sewing Machine Uses Thread

A sewing machine uses thread for top stitches, from the spool, and underneath stitches, from the bobbin.

So as well as the spool, you’ll need a bobbin wound with the same thread.

Winding the Bobbin

The first thing to do to set up your sewing machine is to wind the bobbin.

This is how I go about winding the bobbin on my sewing machine. Yours will probably be similar, but please check the manual!

Slip the empty bobbin onto the bobbin pin.

Put the spool on the spool pin. The end of the thread should be on the top of the spool and when you pull the thread, the spool should turn towards you.

Take the thread through the thread guide, round the bobbin tension disc, then poke the end of the thread through one of the little holes in the top of the bobbin.

On my sewing machine, there are handy little arrows showing where the thread goes, so it’s very difficult to get this wrong.

Hold onto the end of the thread. With your other hand, switch the sewing machine on and push the bobbin pin across.

Gently press on the foot pedal and the bobbin with start to turn. When it’s been round a few times, you can let go of the thread. Cut it off. This is so that it doesn’t end up getting caught inside the sewing machine later.

Using the pedal, finish winding the bobbin.

On my sewing machine, it automatically stops when the bobbin is full. If yours doesn’t do this, stop winding when the thread is covering the little holes.

Cut the thread, slide he bobbin pin back over and take the bobbin off the bobbin pin.

Putting the Bobbin Into the Sewing Machine

On some sewing machines, the bobbin drops into a little bobbin sized space underneath the needle. On others, you have to put the needle into a little case and slot it into an opening on the front of the machine.

Drop In Bobbins

Remove the little plastic plate.

Take your bobbin and drop it into the bobbin hole. Check that the bobbin turns anti clockwise when you pull the thread.

Leave enough of a tail so that there is some thread protruding when you put the plastic plate back on.

Front Loading Bobbins

Pop the bobbin into the little case and pull the thread through the hole. When you pull the thread, the bobbin should turn in a clockwise direction.

Slot the bobbin with its case into the opening and close the little door.

Threading the Sewing Machine

Things might be slightly different on your sewing machine, so it’s a good idea to check the manual first. However, the basic principle will be the same for all sewing machines.

If you haven’t done so already, pop the spool on the spool pin. Check that the spool turns towards you when you pull the thread.

The first place the thread will need to go is through the tension discs. There might be a thread guide to make sure that the thread is in the right place. On newer machines, the bit where the tension discs are will probably look like they do on mine. On an older sewing machine, they might be part of a dial on the front.

The next place for the thread to go is through the take up lever.

After that the thread will need to go through the needle. Again, there will probably be a thread guide so that the thread is in the right place for the needle. The thread goes through the needle from front to back.

Bringing the Bobbin Thread Through to the Top

Once you’ve threaded the sewing machine, the last thing to do to set up your sewing machine is to bring the bobbin thread up through the little gap in the footplate underneath the needle.

This is the same whether you have a top loading or a front loading bobbin.

Holding onto the thread so that it doesn’t come out of the needle, turn the flywheel away from you gently. The needle will descend into the little gap. Keep turning the flywheel until the needle is back to its highest point.

The end of the bobbin thread should now be coming out of the little gap.

If it isn’t, try it again.

If this still doesn’t work, you’ll need to take the bobbin out, unwind a little bit more thread and pop it back in again. Then try again.

Now you’ve set up your sewing machine and it’s ready to use!

Making Friends With Your Sewing Machine: What Are All the Different Bits and What Do They Do?

April 24, 2021 · 1 Comment

When you buy a new sewing machine and get it out the box, one of the things you’ll probably notice straight away is that there are an awful lot of buttons, little knobs and hooky things. So the first job is to find out what they all do so that you can start sewing!

This is true not only if you are a beginner, but also if you’ve been sewing for a bit longer and you’ve upgraded an older sewing machine to a more modern one. My first sewing machine was an elderly Singer from the 1970s. For the last 5 years, I’ve been using a Silver 8000e. The Singer only had 2 stitches and the bobbin winder didn’t work, whereas the Silver is computerised and has lots of stitches.

Some of the things on your machine might look different, or they might be in a slightly different place, but there’s enough similarity between different sewing machines that I hope you’ll still find it useful.

On/ Off Switch

This is usually near the base of the machine, either at the side or round the back. The sensible advice is to leave it turned off until you’re ready to sew, but if you have middle aged lady eye sight problems like I do, it’s going to be much easier to thread the needle if the light’s on. For that the sewing machine will need to be plugged in and switched on. Just keep your foot away from the foot pedal or you might end up sewing over your fingers and that hurts. Guess how I know!

Spool Holder

The spool of thread goes here. Usually the spool needs to be a certain way round. On my sewing machine, the thread should go over the top of the spool so it rolls towards you when you pull it.

There’s often a little plastic thing that goes over the end to stop the spool from flying off mid sewing.

Bobbin Spool Pin

This is where you put the bobbin when you need to wind more thread onto it. The spool of thread will stay where it is, but you’ll need to rethread the sewing machine.

Fly Wheel

The fly wheel turns when you’re sewing. It’s also the way to lift the needle manually. Turn it away from yourself gently and the needle will left up. This is useful if you end up with getting stuck or if you’re in a tangle. It’s also the way you get the needle to rise when you are pulling the bobbin thread through (more about that in a later post!)

Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

The thread goes round here when you need to wind thread around the bobbin. It keeps the thread taut so that it winds evenly.

Tension Dial

The tension dial controls the tension of the thread. A higher number means more tension. Usually you’ll need it on 4, which is about half way. Problems can arise if the tension is wrong, but often what appears to be a tension issue is actually something else. The best advice I can give is to leave it well alone unless you’re sure! More about this another time!

Thread Take Up Lever

This makes the thread go up and down, which makes the stitches.

Tensions Discs

On my sewing machine, the tension discs are inside the sewing machine, but on my Singer they were on the outside. They hold the thread taught while you are sewing and are controlled by the tension dial.

Thread Guide

There might be several of these on your machine. They hold the thread in place while you are sewing, and they keep the thread is in the right place so that it can go around the necessary things like the tension discs and the take up lever.

Stitch Selector

This enables you to choose which stich you’d like to use. Modern machines often have a baffling amount of choice when it comes to stitches! Some you’ll use for ordinary sewing, there might be others for sewing with knits and others for finishing edges and for embroidery.

On some machines the stitch selector is a dial.

Stitch Length Selector

This allows you to determine the length of your stitches. Depending on your machine, you might also have an option to choose width of zigzags as well as how stretched out they are.

Like the stitch selector, this is sometimes a dial on different sewing machines.

Needle

The needle is usually threaded from front to back. If you struggle with threading the needle, turning the light on on your sewing machine might help.

Needle Clamp

The needle clamp holds the needle. Sewing machine needles are flat on one side and curved on the other, so it has to go in a certain way round. Make sure you do it up tightly or the needle will fall out while you’re sewing!

Presser Foot

The presser foot helps to control how the fabric moves along while you are sewing.

Presser Foot Lever

This little lever raises and lowers the presser foot. It will be near the presser foot, either on one side or round the back.

Light

Very useful, especially for threading the needle and for late night/ early mornng sewing!

Light Switch

With some sewing machines, the light comes on automatically when you turn the machine on. Otherwise there will be a separate little switch, probably near the light.

Feed Dogs

The feed dogs are 2 rows of metal teeth that stick out through the needle plate. They guide the fabric through while you are sewing, and are controlled by the foot pedal.

Needle Plate

When you are sewing, the needle goes up and down into the little hole into the bobbin area. It will often have lines marked on it to help with seam allowances.

Bobbin

The thread on the bobbin makes the underneath stitches on your sewing. It lives in the lower part of your sewing machine. Sometimes it will be accessed via a little door at the front of your machine. On other sewing machines, there will be a removable panel next to the needle plate.

Bobbin Case

The bobbin case holds the bobbin inside the sewing machine. On the sort with a door in the front, it will probably come out with the bobbin. On the top loading kind, the bobbin case will be attached to the inside of the machine and you’ll only to need to remove the bobbin, not the case as well.

Foot Pedal

The foot pedal controls the speed of your sewing. On my sewing machine, you have to press quite hard to make it go fast, which makes it easier to use. It varies from machine to machine, so it’s a good idea to try it out before starting a sewing project.

If there’s anything you think I’ve missed, please mention in the comments below and I’ll add it to the list!

You might be interested to know that I have a Pinterest board of tips and tricks for sewing here.

How To Choose The Best Fabric For Curtains

November 19, 2020 · 1 Comment

The Best Types of Fabric For Curtains For Your Home

This is a guest post from Yorkshire Fabric Shop.

Choosing the perfect curtain fabric for your home can be overwhelming. There are endless collections to choose from and you might not know the best type of curtain fabric for your house. We’d like to give you the basics of curtain fabric that’s perfect for your home.

Linen

Linen curtain fabrics are one of the leading fabrics for curtains. It drapes beautifully and provides a crisp and fresh look. Linen can let fresh air and light pass through while still giving the privacy a home owner wants.

This type of curtain fabric also gives out a good insulation whatever the season might be. During hot seasons, it does not block air breeze from the outside. While on winter, it traps heat inside which also contributes to decreasing your bills due to heat escaping.

Linen is easy to take care of, and it does not require special cleaning. Linen curtain fabrics can be washed in the washing machine and can also be dry cleaned. After every wash, it will soften while still maintaining its crisp look. It can also be ironed well. Add a dash of fabulous to your home!

Velvet

Want to make your room more elegant and sophisticated? We think velvet is the perfect curtain fabric for you. Velvet is a thick, and soft yet textured curtain fabric that can turn a boring space into a hotel style look. Velvet is perfect for homes with high ceilings. If your walls are not that high, just make sure your rod is set up to the ceiling. That way you’ll get the full benefit of your velvet curtains and it will make your ceiling look higher.

Velvet is also a great curtain fabric to block light from entering your house. If you prefer to have a blackout curtain for your home, then velvet’s the one for you. Too much heat no more!

Polyester

If you’re looking for a curtain fabric that’s budget-friendly and practical, we think polyester is for you. This curtain fabric is mould resistant and is very easy to care for. It’s also durable and won’t wrinkle or stretch easily. Polyester can also last for years if it is cared for and cleaned regularly. Washing polyester is very easy and can be washed in the washing machine. However, it’s a great odour conductor so we suggest not using it in the kitchen.

Polyester fabrics also hold dye and reflect colours well. Great for people who would want to bring out the best colours in their homes!

Curtains are designed not only to block light but also to be aesthetically pleasing. They contribute to the ambiance of our homes. Most homeowners want to use their curtains to give their homes a unique touch.

In addition to the overall feel of the house, it’s necessary to consider the practicalities of each type curtain fabric. If you are looking for curtain fabric, Yorkshire Fabric Shop offers a huge range of colours, fabrics, patterns, and textures.

Tips For Sewing With Knits: It’s Easier Than You Might Think!

September 2, 2020 · Leave a Comment

This post contains affiliate links.

Sewing woven fabrics, like cotton and polycotton, is without question easier to sewing with knits. A big part of this is because they don’t stretch and they hold their shape. There’s no need to faff with the settings on your sewing machine, and no extra skills or knowledge are needed.

So when people first learn to sew, they usually learn with cotton or polycotton.

Sooner or later though, you’re going to want to sew with different kinds of fabric, and jersey knits will probably be on the list!

What is a Knit Fabric?

Knit refers to the way in which the fabric has been constructed.

Woven fabrics are made with up and down threads (warp) and side to side threads (weft). These are woven together by passing the weft threads alternately over and under the warp threads.

Knit fabrics are made using a single thread in loops threaded through each other, like knitting.

This is why knits are stretchy and woven fabrics are not.

Knits also have a stretchy element in the fibres they are made from, like lycra or spandex, which also helps to make them stretchy.

Why Would I Want To Sew With Knits?

There are lots of reasons for sewing with knit fabrics.

Clothes made from jersey often don’t need darts and rarely need zips.

You can make all kinds of things with stretchy fabrics, from skirts, tops and dresses to pyjamas and exercise clothes.

There are thicker sorts of jersey, including terry and sweatshirt fabric, which are more suitable for the colder months.

It’s very comfortable to wear.

Problems With Sewing With Knits

If you are new to sewing, or if you just haven’t tried it, the idea of sewing with jersey knits can be off putting.

How on earth do you sew something that stretches?
What if the edges curl up and make it impossible to sew?
Do I have to do something complicated to my sewing machine in order to sew it?
How do I sew hems without them looking frilly?
How do I use bias binding on this stuff when it doesn’t stretch enough?

Fortunately there are few things you can do to make sewing with jersey easier.

Tips For Sewing With Knits

Choosing Fabric

Use jersey with a two way stretch. Usually this will stretch quite a bit between the selvedges, but won’t stretch very much the other way. It’s easier to sew fabric that only stretches one way than the kind with a 4 way stretch that will stretch all over the place!

Choose a cotton interlock jersey. Ponte Roma is similiar. It’s made using two layers of threads, so it’s usually thicker and more stable than other knit fabrics.

Check how much the fabric curls before buying. The thinner and stretchier it is, the more likely it is to curl.

If you buy your fabric from a bricks and mortar shop, check the fabric first. Assistants are often knowledgeable and happy to help, so ask them if you need advice.

When buying fabric online, this is a harder thing to check!

One clue to look out for is the percentage of lycra or spandex compared to the other fibres. The higher the lycra/ spandex content the more likely it is to curl.

If something is very lightweight, it will probably be more to be difficult to sew.

Often you can have samples sent to you if you want to check the fabric before committing to buy, or you could call the shop and have a chat with them before making a decision.

Sewing With Knit Fabrics

Once you’ve got your fabric, there are things you can do to make sewing it easier.

Use a stitch for knits. Most modern machines have a stitch specifically for knits. If yours doesn’t, use a zigzag. This will allow the stitches to stretch with the fabric.

Try using a stretch needle. A universal needle might work perfectly well, but if you find that you’re experiencing problems, then try swapping it for a stretch needle.

Try not to pull the fabric through the sewing machine. It can be tempting to do this! But pulling the fabric will cause it to stretch and will result in puckering. If you are tempted to pull it, just guide the fabric from the back.

Use stabilising paper or tape on seams. This stuff dissolves in water, or you can use this which specifically for stabilising seams. Alternatively you can use tissue paper instead. Just slip it underneath when you are sewing and pull it away when you’ve finished.

If you need to use interfacing, use the kind for knits. Until a couple of years ago, I had no idea that this stuff existed! It allows you to add weight to your fabric where you need to, without losing any of the stretch.

Stay stitch necklines and arm holes. Using a long stitch, sew just inside the seam allowance. Doing this will help to stabilise the fabric when you sew the neckline and the armholes and reduce the chances of them becoming stretched and frilly looking.

If you’re finishing the raw edges with bias binding, use stretch bias binding. This was something else I’ve only discovered quite recently! Regular bias binding does have a stretch to it, but it might not stretch as much as your fabric. Stretch bias binding will stretch with the fabric.

What Next?

Now you’ve read the tips, the best thing to do is to grab your sewing machine and some stretchy fabric and have a go! Practise first, then when you feel comfy, you might like to try one of these projects that uses stretchy fabric.

This is a tutorial for a half circle skirt made from jersey, so no zip required!

These are instructions for a dress I made from cotton interlock jersey. I wore it a lot and it was as comfy as pyjamas!

There’s a link here to an easy tutorial for making tracksuit bottoms for a child.

Before You Start

Sewing With Your Sewing Machine

When You Have Finished Sewing

When You’ve Finished Using Your Sewing Machine

Tips

Other Posts You Might Like

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Which Thread?

How Your Sewing Machine Uses Thread

Winding the Bobbin

Putting the Bobbin Into the Sewing Machine

Drop In Bobbins

Front Loading Bobbins

Threading the Sewing Machine

Bringing the Bobbin Thread Through to the Top

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On/ Off Switch

Spool Holder

Bobbin Spool Pin

Fly Wheel

Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

Tension Dial

Thread Take Up Lever

Tensions Discs

Thread Guide

Stitch Selector

Stitch Length Selector

Needle

Needle Clamp

Presser Foot

Presser Foot Lever

Light

Light Switch

Feed Dogs

Needle Plate

Bobbin

Bobbin Case

Foot Pedal

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The Best Types of Fabric For Curtains For Your Home

Linen

Velvet

Polyester

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What is a Knit Fabric?

Why Would I Want To Sew With Knits?

Problems With Sewing With Knits

Tips For Sewing With Knits

Choosing Fabric

Sewing With Knit Fabrics

What Next?

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